Passage to Tonga.
Skipper: Dan
Crew: Amy and David (a German backpacker who was working at Norsand with Dan for a while)
Helpers: Paige, Rylee and Oliver.
Departed 21st June, Arrived 1st July 2010. 240 hours, 10 days.
Total distance travelled – 1278nm, Average speed 5.35 Knots, Max Speed 15.31 recorded on the first day (Dan). 3 hour watches between 3 people, best watch 25 nm (Amy) and worst watch 7 nm (also Amy).
We left Whangarei Marina on the 16th of June and anchored in the harbour for a couple of nights while waiting for a few last minute bits and pieces – SSB and Weather Fax software. We then headed further down the harbour to Parua Bay for a couple of nights before heading to Marsden Cove Marina on Sunday the 20th. When there our friends that live on their boat there let us use their internet to look and the weather and the decision was made to go with the weather window we had, so we contacted customs and arranged to clear out the next morning.
A last minute trip to the local supermarket for bread, milk and a few fresh veges, a very quick visit from customs to complete the paper work and we were casting off at 1100. An hour later and we were just out of Whangarei Heads and getting sorted for exactly which course we were going to take with the good W breeze of 15 knots when the NZ Airforce Orion flew over and made VHF contact with us to confirm details. This was a bit nerve racking talking to “official” people on the airwaves but nice to know big brother was watching. We then settled in for what we were hoping to be a weeklong trip. We had a stew for late lunch which I had prepared that morning and then started to give in to the sea sickness. I think we all felt it, some more than others.


The kids had a wee parcel each to open which they had been given by friends from the marina. Paige got a toy dog (perfect) and the boys a hot wheels car each. This was great as they lay on the settee or out in the cockpit playing with them for the rest of the day. The parcel also had other things to open as the passage went on so it kept them occupied wondering what it might be and when we might be able to open them.
We had decided on 3 hour watches, which would give us a 6 hour break and one person only doing 2 watches in a 24 hour period. I landed the first Midnight to 0300 watch which was fine and I was thinking as I was trying to rest before coming on that it can’t be any worse that doing your first 8 hour night shift often on a few hours sleep if any. During the watch I saw some lights appear on the horizon behind us and was keeping a good look out for them. At the changeover we decided to gybe as we were heading further and further NW, and also put in a reef as the wind was gradually picking up. As Dan and I were doing this Paige woke up and was wondering around the saloon and the other vessel started to try and radio us on the VHF. We weren’t able to answer it so Paige asked them to wait until we had finished our sail change, she was so good and we were very proud of her. The other vessel just wanted to let us know they were going to be passing us, but I let them know we had just altered course so they stayed on the original heading and it wasn’t an issue.
Last sunset over New Zealand.
Dan saw a couple of other large vessels on his watch, and another yacht appeared on Davids morning watch which stayed sailing parallel with us for most of the day.
The first 24 hours was our best in regards to distance travelled 175 nm. The Orion flew over us again and when they contacted us they even commented that we had made good progress which was nice. It was a very quiet day, with everyone still getting used to the motion of being on the sea.
On the Wednesday we were all starting to get our sea legs and even attempted some fishing with our new hand line. We had a large tuna right up to the steps then just as we were trying to land it, it got off. About an hour later we had another strike, which made the hand line jump off the winch it was attached to and we lost the whole lot. Dan was understandably not very happy and was wishing the fish a slow horrible death.
In the afternoon Paige taught Rylee how to make sherbet.
Over night the wind started increasing and by early Thursday morning we were sailing with just the storm jib with winds steady in the 30 knots, but gusting up to 50 knots. Dan felt the seas weren’t too big, and it wouldn’t last long and by the afternoon we were starting to put sails back up and the sea sickness which had started again was easing.

After this time we averaged only around 10 knots of wind, and passage life felt like it was really beginning in earnest. Overnight into the Friday I saw a couple of planes about 20 minutes apart looking to be doing the overnight flight from Tonga to Auckland. During the day we did manage to catch a small tuna like fish on the kids fishing rods, which made a nice entree to our evening meal.
Saturday was perhaps our most nerve wracking as on Dans 0600 watch he took out a reef with the help of Paige and once again the Main halyard slipped off the sheave at the top of the mast (we had this in Croiselles Harbour April 2009) and we couldn’t get the main down if we needed to. I had just got off to sleep when Dan had to wake me again to help. I was obviously not on the ball as when we were getting sorted I accidentally let the Genoa halyard off the Jammer so as well as everything else we had to re-hoist it. The wind had eased but it was still sloppy with the waves, so David was on the helm keeping us as steady as possible, while I hoisted Dan up to do the job. Needless to say it was very stressful. Being down on deck I watched as Dan became paler and paler, including his feet and hands. After about three quarters of an hour he finally was ready to return down to us, much battered and bruised, and needed to lie on the cabin top for a while before being able to move. He had three layers of clothing, all of which were soaked with sweat! During all of this the kids were great entertaining themselves inside so we could concentrate on what we were doing.
By the time we had finished David was on watch and we tried to get back into routine again.
By this time we were only about half way in a straight line to our destination so knew we were looking at a longer trip as the SE trade winds we were expecting were just not out there as the isobar weather map was showing a stationary warm front over Fiji which was stopping them. From now on the bird life dropped off for a couple of days, but we did start seeing small flying fish, one of which flew up on deck during the night, so Dan kept it to show the kids. The kids also had a half way there present to open from their friends which was Bubbles. This was great fun and a good diversion.

On the Monday Oliver decided he was doing some baking, so very independently cooked us all cupcakes out of his cookbook. That evening Paige decided she was helping with the evening watch (1800-2100) which was nice for me to have someone to talk to as after tea everyone usually was in bed fairly smartly to get their rest before their next watch. She lasted until 2030, and then scuttled off to bed as well. I have written in the log for my 0300-0600 watch that I did it in bare feet! Definitely feeling excited about the warming temperature.
Tuesday we started seeing birds again, but not ones we recognised which was also really cool. That evening we had just sat down to tea, it had been dark about half an hour and all of a sudden there was a dramatic wind change, swung about 180 degrees and increased in strength, which caused a flurry of activity, to put in a couple of reefs as we had no way of knowing whether or not it would increase or not and getting back on to the right heading. Thankfully it didn’t build but a little scary as you just couldn’t see the water/waves to give any indication of what might have been happening.
Wednesday morning and the end was in sight. We had passed Ata Island during the night, and could still see it on the horizon behind us in the morning when the kids woke up so it was good for them to see some land. The bird life was increasing and on one of my watches there was lots of seaweed all signs to suggest we were getting there.
By the evening though it was obvious we would be getting to Tongatapu in the dark so made the decision to drop the sails, just a little Genoa for steerage and put out the new drogue, which stopped us, less than a knot, for a few hours. Unfortunately this did make us quite rocky and Dan started feeling sea sick again, so I did his watch for him, which was easier as we dosed in-between 20 minute position checks. Paige also helped again, as was really great about getting up when the timer went off.
At 0300 we dragged in the drogue and set sail again, a process which took 45 minutes and were on our way for the last part of our journey.