Hello again. We returned to Tongatapu yesterday after a few weeks of exploring some of the outer islands and a bit of the Ha’apai group.
We went to Fafa, which is a small island with a resort on it. We couldn’t get in very close due to the reef and had to dinghy in but had a pleasant afternoon looking around the island and swimming/snorkelling. There is a lagoon that we think we would be able to get into, but we would need a very settled day weather wise and come from the other side of the reef from where we were anchored.
The next couple of nights were spent at a completely uninhabited island called Malinoa which was only about half an hour under Genoa from Fafa. There we learnt about coconuts, how to get them from the trees, which were the best for drinking (the green ones) and which were the best for eating (the brown ones). Oliver and Paige met a sea snake while they were exploring in the bush after they had jumped on the log it was sleeping under! We did a lot of shell hunting and enjoyed the beautiful clear water once again for swimming and snorkelling. The second day we were there Dan and the boys took the dinghy out fishing and caught our first decent sized fish which was very exciting.
From there we headed up to Kelefesia which is the southernmost Island in the Ha’apai Group. This was not a pleasant experience though we did stay there for the night. This was the first time we had come across blind rollers (which we had been told about so knew some of what to expect) which are large breaking waves seemingly in the middle of nowhere. They are very disconcerting and hard to tell exactly which direction they are coming from and going to. This anchorage also had large breaking waves all around the entrance which was small so we were happy to leave early the next morning without even going ashore. I think we would only go back there on a day that was very still, but that would mean we couldn’t get there as we would have to motor.
Next stop Nomuka Iki (small Nomuka) which was much more like it. Another uninhabited Island with picturesque scenery, sheltered lagoon, rock pools to explore, fruit bats to keep us entertained in the evening and the potential of ripening fruit for later in the trip. The only down fall was the army of mosquitoes from nearby Nomuka who relished our fresh blood. We quickly shut all doors and hatches which had been the first time since about halfway through our passage up here and for the third night there had been given some Mortein coils to burn from some friendly locals over on Nomuka which worked brilliantly. Nomuka was an interesting village with reportedly three hundred people living there. Again rubbish seemed to be everywhere as well as burnt out fires which seemed to be used to get rid of some of the excess. The pigs roaming around as well as the dogs and horses all seemed very under nourished and covered in parasites (some of which I am sure made it back to the boat with us from the bites on the kids). There were three schools there as far as we could work out, two primary and one secondary up to year 11. One girl we talked to said that the secondary school had internet and that was how she got her music for the I-pod she was carrying. Another girl we met was the daughter of a minister who had recently come to the island from Auckland and she gave us some sugar cane to try. This was interesting as you just chewed it then spat out the fibres. Paige loved it, the boys were too interested in looking through the rock pools to worry too much about it, I found it OK, very sweet and a bit disconcerting to be spitting all the time! This girl told us there were four vehicles on Nomuka and most people used horses to get around. She also said there were about 6 different churches! All for a village we walked all around in less than an hour! There was a small hospital with a resident doctor, but I didn’t go in to check it out this trip.
Our next island was Fonoifua. On the way there we saw whales again, first of all just their blows and backs coming up out of the water then later on when they were well behind us breeching which was really amazing. When we first found our anchoring spot we had a gaggle of local kids run up the beach to greet us and they hung around for quite awhile, unfortunately we weren’t ready to get off the boat straight away and they lost interest after about half an hour. When we were finally sorted it was a bit of a mission at low tide to find a safe way in to land in the dinghy but on the second attempt got in then had to carry the dinghy around the beach a way to make sure it was safe. It didn’t take long before all the kids were playing in the sand and then a game of scrag started up. I don’t think there were any rules but there was a lot of laughter from all of them. We gave them some of the stickers Dans sister Megan had asked us to hand out to the children, then they took Oliver and Rylee off to explore the beach and kept picking up shells and other treasures for them to bring back.
We talked to a few of the locals then Peni the local minister for the 60 odd inhabitants came out to talk. He was an interesting man who had done a lot of travelling with the military over the years including NZ. He told us about the collecting of the sea cucumbers and other sea food that we had seen happening in Tongatapu and Ha’apai. He said that the Chinese are paying $5/sea cucumber and up to $50 for some of the bigger shellfish that can be collected from the reef. They had set up a collection point on this small island as well as at least one on many of the others and in larger villages such as Nomuka there would be two, and thinking back after talking about this I remembered seeing this in Nomuka. They cook the seafood, then dry it and it goes to the markets in China. They aim to ship 200 ton of dried product this season (May to November) back to China.
On the way back to the boat a couple of fishermen were returning from the reef in the traditional outrigger canoes and Dan went to chat to them at the water’s edge and came away with a fish from each of them, the easiest fishing we have had!
The anchorage there wasn’t very comfortable as we ended side on to the swell and current so we moved to the other side of the reef, which was better but still not great so first thing the following morning we up anchored and headed south to Telekivavau but when we got there was no way we were going to try and get in the narrow entrance with the swell that was running in there, so we turned around and headed north to O’ua where we tucked in by the reef in about 6m of water. We stayed here for a couple of nights, investigating the small islands at high tide, as the reefs surrounding them make this impossible at low tide. We found some very large coconuts and some whale bones which you didn’t want to be downwind from! Another successful fishing trip from Dan and Oliver gave us tea again that night. We also had our first neighbour since Pangiamotu on our second night in the form of a 110 foot super yacht.
We tried again for Telekivavau and this time was successful getting in there which was well worth it as we spent four days there. On the way we had another show of whales breeching and caught a small tuna (big enough to feed all of us over a couple of meals) and had a strike from a bigger one which took our second to last luer. Telekivavau used to have a one guest house resort on it but the people have left and everything is boarded up, but we managed to tap into one of the water tanks and catch up on washing again. The front of the guest house looked lovely with all our washing strung between the coconut trees out front. There were green bananas and papayas, beans growing along the ground but nothing ripe yet. The only down side is that half the crew were unwell with stomach pains and headaches for a couple of days while we were there. The current was strong in most places also but we found a cool spot where the kids could float down along the beach then meet the waves from the other direction, bounce over them, come back to shore, run down the beach and start again. There was also the big house right on the beach front and it was cool to sit on the steps and pretend it was ours. We had the most amazing sunset on the Sunday which put on a show for nearly half an hour and ended up all around us even reflecting in the water.
After getting all the washing sorted and the crew (and skipper) feeling better we headed back to Tongatapu for some supplies. We arrived just before sunset as we had a set back of the main halyard coming off the sheave at the top of the mast again when we set sail in the morning so had over an hour fixing that. Luckily there was another anchorage not far from Telekivavau which we stopped at and got in sorted in reasonable comfort this time.
One really cool thing was that we had anchored and was getting sorted for tea etc, when someone from a neighbouring boat rowed over and it was a friend of Dan’s from when he was sailing as a teenager and his wife and they had only arrived from NZ that day. We are looking forward to some great catch up time with them over the next few days
Saturday, July 24, 2010
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
Photos of Tonga
Fine example of Tongan water safety!
View under our boat, Pangiamotu 2 meters of water at anchor.
Little tree with cool root system, making good progress after cyclone damage.
Eastern side of Pangiamotu, evidence of cyclone damage.
Rylee on the rope swing at Big Mamas, Pangiamotu.
Paige with Polly the parrot and Pirate Pearl, our three P's all the way from Nelson.
Locals at Malianoa.
Blind Rollers - breaking waves in the middle of nowhere - spooky
Malianoa Island, our first uninhabited island adventure.
Paige practicing her diving at Malianoa Is.
Rylee increasing his confidance with mask and snorkle swimming.
Oliver practicing his swimming, Malianoa.
Some Locals on Malianoa Island.
Paige in some of the cool trees that send out roots from the trunk to the ground. Nomuka Iki.
Hermit Crabs we found hiding up a small tree. Nomuka Iki.
Rylee swinging on the boat. How we keep them entertained!
Paige giving the swing a go.
And Olivers Turn.
The kids playing scrag with the locals on a small Island with around 60 inhabitants. Not much english was spoken but they didn't need a common language to work out this game!
Stickers from Aunty Megan to the local kids.
The kids were real characters and loved showing off.
Sunset at Telekivavau, one of our most spectacular yet, it was all around us and reflecting in the water and kept on changing for us, a real magic show.
Kids swimming at Telekivavau.
Paige meeting the Head of the Island!
Oliver building his fire pit, he really wanted a cookout on the beach
Division II framed by Telekevavau.
Sunday, July 4, 2010
Some photos to go with my novel!
The site gives me issues around putting these photos where I want them in the text. I still haven't worked out a better way of doing it, but hopefully you will be able to match them up with our stories.
Paiges Post
PAIGE’S TRIP TO TONGA
I liked sailing to Tonga because I saw lots of birds and coming into Tongatapu Dad and I saw 2 whales spouting . We arrived on 1/7/2010. We have 4 people that have to visit us, we have had 2 people on board so far. We have had Health and Immigration on board. Tomorrow we will have Customs and Quarantine on board.
Today Dad went to shore to see Quarantine and Customs. We had to go back into the marina to see them. Once we had finished we had to go to the Quarantine Office to pay our fee, then we went to a computer place to send some emails.
Saturday 3rd July. We are going into town for the first time. We are excited because we can get some food. When we got to the market it was very big. We didn’t even get through all of it. We found a supermarket to get some food, but when we found out how much the food was we just said “Whoa, we are not getting that, it is too expensive.” The yogurt was seventeen pa’anga (Tongan Dollars) for one litre. Isn’t that expensive. On our way back we got some Tongan food for lunch. It was very delicious. We also got a coconut with a straw in it. It was very delicious as well.
Sunday 4th July. We swam off the back of our boat for half an hour. I swam without my lifejacket. After our swim we had lunch. After lunch we went to the beach and had a little snorkel. Then we walked around the Island. I found two shells. Then we went for a snorkel at the reef. On our way back Rylee got an anemone sting. I was just snorkelling and then I heard a scream. We went to the Cafe Big Mamas and asked for some vinegar. The owner was the one that said it was an anemone sting. After that we went back to the boat. Rylee was very sore. Then Pirate Pearl came. She gave me two necklaces, one bracelet and two pieces of string.
I liked sailing to Tonga because I saw lots of birds and coming into Tongatapu Dad and I saw 2 whales spouting . We arrived on 1/7/2010. We have 4 people that have to visit us, we have had 2 people on board so far. We have had Health and Immigration on board. Tomorrow we will have Customs and Quarantine on board.
Today Dad went to shore to see Quarantine and Customs. We had to go back into the marina to see them. Once we had finished we had to go to the Quarantine Office to pay our fee, then we went to a computer place to send some emails.
Saturday 3rd July. We are going into town for the first time. We are excited because we can get some food. When we got to the market it was very big. We didn’t even get through all of it. We found a supermarket to get some food, but when we found out how much the food was we just said “Whoa, we are not getting that, it is too expensive.” The yogurt was seventeen pa’anga (Tongan Dollars) for one litre. Isn’t that expensive. On our way back we got some Tongan food for lunch. It was very delicious. We also got a coconut with a straw in it. It was very delicious as well.
Sunday 4th July. We swam off the back of our boat for half an hour. I swam without my lifejacket. After our swim we had lunch. After lunch we went to the beach and had a little snorkel. Then we walked around the Island. I found two shells. Then we went for a snorkel at the reef. On our way back Rylee got an anemone sting. I was just snorkelling and then I heard a scream. We went to the Cafe Big Mamas and asked for some vinegar. The owner was the one that said it was an anemone sting. After that we went back to the boat. Rylee was very sore. Then Pirate Pearl came. She gave me two necklaces, one bracelet and two pieces of string.
First few Days in Tonga
July 1st. Arrival in Tonga. We awoke this morning with palm trees on the horizon. Yah Tongatapu. It did take another few hours to get close to the island, but seeing beach and then green lawns and buildings was getting exciting.
On our way into Egeria Channel, Dan and Paige saw a whale briefly blow and its back. Unfortunately the boys and I were a bit slow and we didn’t see it again. It was a bit difficult trying to match up the chart and the islands we were actually seeing and Dan was finding it a bit stressful, with the waves breaking in the middle of nowhere, but we were grateful about our decision of the night before to slow down so we weren’t trying to navigate this in the dark as the reef opening wasn’t that wide.
Once we were sorted though it was a lovely sail into Nuku’alofa, with flat water and a good breeze. We started trying to contact customs on the VHF on the channel that all our sailing guides had told us to use but didn’t get an answer. We did have a great conversation with our friend Pirate Pearl who had helped crew on another boat which had left from Nelson on the same day as us and were anchored over at Pangaimotu Island. She did warn us then that it would take at least until tomorrow to be able to get through Customs and Quarantine etc. We still couldn’t get hold of anyone official so we anchored outside the harbour, where two boats from Whangarei were also anchored. We finally got hold of the Harbour Master, who asked us to go into the fuelling berth for clearance. There was a bit of a traffic jam, with boats getting fuel and two other boats still awaiting some of the clearance people, so we waited for a bit to let one boat out and another in but finally rafted up for the first time ever and waited for the people to come.
While we waited we talked to the others waiting about our passage and the weather and also took in our surroundings and explained to the kids we couldn’t really get off the boat to explore as we weren’t cleared yet. The state of the other boats in the harbour and the infrastructure (if it could be called that) was a real eye opener. Everything seemed so run down and dirty and the rubbish everywhere. Lots of plastic bags, bottles, and cans floating all around in the harbour. I wanted to take some photos of it but felt a bit funny as there were lots of people around, but I may still do so to give people an idea of what it is like. The other interesting experience while we were there was the people coming to sell stuff. TP30 to get your washing done, trips around the island for a tour, carvings to look at, taxi drivers trying to take you places. It was hard work trying to find a polite way of refusing their offers of help.
The other two boats were just waiting for immigration to come so when they arrived they also processed us and the health man came, filled out our paperwork, then took Dan down to the ATM for the money to pay his fee TP100! (about .80c NZ per TP1.00). By this time it was after 5pm so we knew Customs and Quarantine weren’t coming so the immigration man said to come back tomorrow. The boat we were rafted up to was the boat we had seen on the second day of our passage and they had also been out at Norsand for a while so recognised Dan. They had been there all day, but said not to stay at the wharf over night because of the rats, so we went back out of the harbour entrance for the night.
July 2nd. We had a plan this morning of Dan taking the dingy over to customs and quarantine to find out what we needed to do today and whether or not we needed to take the boat over to the fuelling berth again or not. He was told that we did need to go back over so we up anchored again and headed back in. Customs and quarantine both arrived in good time and we could lower our yellow flag, but we needed to go to the quarantine office to pay our fee of $20.00 plus rubbish disposal. We had some lunch then headed off down the road for a walk to quarantine, which Dan had been to earlier so knew where it was otherwise we would never have found them, in a little back office in an unmarked yard. Paper work everywhere, someone asleep on a shelf in the back of the office and another lady playing a computer game who was obviously in charge of the money as when we needed change she had to come behind the counter and get the change from what seemed to be her handbag.
On the way back to the boat we came upon the Mission for Mariners, who had internet so we called in there and tried to send a Hotmail, but couldn’t connect so let Facebook know we had arrived so people weren’t worrying about us! They were very nice there and we signed the visitors book and they gave us a few tips about watching out for cars, indicators often don’t work and the drivers tend to stop and park wherever they want! On the way back to the boat we stopped at some of the numerous road side stalls and bought some apples, about 7 apples for TP5, some very limp and tired veges TP6 and a pile of 4 watermelon for TP2, which was the best value produce we could find. We were hanging out for fresh fruit as we had the last kiwifruit several days before so as soon as we were back on board a snack of apples and watermelon and the tramps was like heaven.
After that we sailed across to Pangaimotu where we knew we could anchor and there would be a good beach for the kids to play on. We headed over with all the beach gear for the rest of the afternoon, the water was really warm, but the wind quite cooling. It was great to be shell finding, swimming and there was a great rope swing that provided lots of entertainment. The kids were really excited about finding coconuts and were amazed by finding ones that were starting to turn into trees. While we were on the beach the boat Pirate Pearl was on returned from a day trip so Dan took the dingy over to say hello and brought her back. It was so good to see her here and have a great catch up on the beach. She also presented us with a special flag saying welcome to Tonga which was flying as we were coming into Nuku’alofa from her boat. Later on as the sun was setting we went into the local restaurant, Big Mamas to catch up with the rest of the crew from the boat Pirate Pearl is on and then returned to the boat in the dark. We did this in two trips so Paige and I had another play on the rope swing, and she said it felt like being in a black and white movie.
July 3rd. Today we weren’t sure what we were going to be up to but we were planning on a few jobs like the never ending washing and running the generator for a while to help charge the battery bank. We were up not too early, had a lovely breakfast of fruit salad from the purchases yesterday and some Eziyo yogurt then did a few jobs including a bit of school work. We had just decided to have a cuppa and a think about the plan for the rest of the day, the kids were all set in their snorkelling gear and keen for a swim, when we noticed all of a sudden we were very close to the boat behind us. We have no idea why, not sure if we dragged or it was just the angle but were too close for comfort and decided we needed to move and because of this instead of just shifting decided to head back over too Nuku’alofa as we needed water and Dan didn’t want to run the generator with all the other boats around. So a gentle sail across to just outside of Faua Harbour again, generator on, cuppa tea and then we decided to head into town to check out the markets. Once again we were struck by the rubbish that is everywhere in the streets and lots of seating along the water front broken. We made it to the markets, but were uninspired but the prices and the very limp state of most of the produce, so we continued on and found a travel agent where we picked up a guide and then wandered back towards the boat and on the way got sidetracked by the local playground, and then checked out one of the supermarkets to compare prices before buying from the roadside stalls. The supermarket was clean and had a few produce and meat but nothing that at this stage we didn’t already have on the boat. A 1kg of yogurt was on special for TP16.99 and a 2L ice cream was TP8.99 and I didn’t even look at the cheese!
On the way back we stopped and bought a cold coconut from some boys and their peanuts, which were fantastic. Paige really enjoyed it and the boys loved the peanuts in a shell which Rylee paid for with a TP1 he had found on the side walk. We had been stopped by a vendor on the way into town selling “traditional Tongan food” but we weren’t hungry then, so we stopped on the way back and he showed us his food which he said was cooked in an umu, and we could have Tongan pork or lamb or salted beef. We choose the lamb which was in coconut cream then wrapped in taro leaves with manioke (cassava) underneath. It was delicious so we went back and also got the pork, which wasn’t as tasty but very filling, and we have ended up with some of the cassava left over for another meal, all for TP10.00, which we felt was good value to feed the five of us.
This was a very late lunch for us and we wandered back to the dingy and the plan was for Dan, David and the kids to go back to the boat and for me to meet Dan at the water tanks with the jerry cans for a top up of water. It took about 10 minutes for me to walk there then I waited and waited and next thing instead of the dingy, here is Division II coming back into the fuelling berth!! I then remembered I had the hand held VHF so started trying to contact them, which took a while as they were busy. I found out that we had been asked to move as there was a container ship coming in so Dan had decided to come into the harbour. Dan had help with the lines from a couple of young Tongan boys when he got to the dock, so he shared out a small bar of chocolate between them and our kids. He also tried out some of his Tongan on them as they didn’t seem to speak any English but they just giggled at him.
We duly got our water and then headed on back to Pangaimotu, before the sun went down, so the kids could have some time on the beach. The kids are really getting the hang of using their masks and snorkels and having a great time discovering new creatures. Rylee managed to catch a worm like fish that lives just under the sand. They spotted and octopus living in a shell and brought back more shells to the boat.
Passage to Tonga.
Skipper: Dan
Crew: Amy and David (a German backpacker who was working at Norsand with Dan for a while)
Helpers: Paige, Rylee and Oliver.
Departed 21st June, Arrived 1st July 2010. 240 hours, 10 days.
Total distance travelled – 1278nm, Average speed 5.35 Knots, Max Speed 15.31 recorded on the first day (Dan). 3 hour watches between 3 people, best watch 25 nm (Amy) and worst watch 7 nm (also Amy).
We left Whangarei Marina on the 16th of June and anchored in the harbour for a couple of nights while waiting for a few last minute bits and pieces – SSB and Weather Fax software. We then headed further down the harbour to Parua Bay for a couple of nights before heading to Marsden Cove Marina on Sunday the 20th. When there our friends that live on their boat there let us use their internet to look and the weather and the decision was made to go with the weather window we had, so we contacted customs and arranged to clear out the next morning.
A last minute trip to the local supermarket for bread, milk and a few fresh veges, a very quick visit from customs to complete the paper work and we were casting off at 1100. An hour later and we were just out of Whangarei Heads and getting sorted for exactly which course we were going to take with the good W breeze of 15 knots when the NZ Airforce Orion flew over and made VHF contact with us to confirm details. This was a bit nerve racking talking to “official” people on the airwaves but nice to know big brother was watching. We then settled in for what we were hoping to be a weeklong trip. We had a stew for late lunch which I had prepared that morning and then started to give in to the sea sickness. I think we all felt it, some more than others.
The kids had a wee parcel each to open which they had been given by friends from the marina. Paige got a toy dog (perfect) and the boys a hot wheels car each. This was great as they lay on the settee or out in the cockpit playing with them for the rest of the day. The parcel also had other things to open as the passage went on so it kept them occupied wondering what it might be and when we might be able to open them.
We had decided on 3 hour watches, which would give us a 6 hour break and one person only doing 2 watches in a 24 hour period. I landed the first Midnight to 0300 watch which was fine and I was thinking as I was trying to rest before coming on that it can’t be any worse that doing your first 8 hour night shift often on a few hours sleep if any. During the watch I saw some lights appear on the horizon behind us and was keeping a good look out for them. At the changeover we decided to gybe as we were heading further and further NW, and also put in a reef as the wind was gradually picking up. As Dan and I were doing this Paige woke up and was wondering around the saloon and the other vessel started to try and radio us on the VHF. We weren’t able to answer it so Paige asked them to wait until we had finished our sail change, she was so good and we were very proud of her. The other vessel just wanted to let us know they were going to be passing us, but I let them know we had just altered course so they stayed on the original heading and it wasn’t an issue.
Last sunset over New Zealand.
Dan saw a couple of other large vessels on his watch, and another yacht appeared on Davids morning watch which stayed sailing parallel with us for most of the day.
The first 24 hours was our best in regards to distance travelled 175 nm. The Orion flew over us again and when they contacted us they even commented that we had made good progress which was nice. It was a very quiet day, with everyone still getting used to the motion of being on the sea.
On the Wednesday we were all starting to get our sea legs and even attempted some fishing with our new hand line. We had a large tuna right up to the steps then just as we were trying to land it, it got off. About an hour later we had another strike, which made the hand line jump off the winch it was attached to and we lost the whole lot. Dan was understandably not very happy and was wishing the fish a slow horrible death.
In the afternoon Paige taught Rylee how to make sherbet.
Over night the wind started increasing and by early Thursday morning we were sailing with just the storm jib with winds steady in the 30 knots, but gusting up to 50 knots. Dan felt the seas weren’t too big, and it wouldn’t last long and by the afternoon we were starting to put sails back up and the sea sickness which had started again was easing.
After this time we averaged only around 10 knots of wind, and passage life felt like it was really beginning in earnest. Overnight into the Friday I saw a couple of planes about 20 minutes apart looking to be doing the overnight flight from Tonga to Auckland. During the day we did manage to catch a small tuna like fish on the kids fishing rods, which made a nice entree to our evening meal.
Saturday was perhaps our most nerve wracking as on Dans 0600 watch he took out a reef with the help of Paige and once again the Main halyard slipped off the sheave at the top of the mast (we had this in Croiselles Harbour April 2009) and we couldn’t get the main down if we needed to. I had just got off to sleep when Dan had to wake me again to help. I was obviously not on the ball as when we were getting sorted I accidentally let the Genoa halyard off the Jammer so as well as everything else we had to re-hoist it. The wind had eased but it was still sloppy with the waves, so David was on the helm keeping us as steady as possible, while I hoisted Dan up to do the job. Needless to say it was very stressful. Being down on deck I watched as Dan became paler and paler, including his feet and hands. After about three quarters of an hour he finally was ready to return down to us, much battered and bruised, and needed to lie on the cabin top for a while before being able to move. He had three layers of clothing, all of which were soaked with sweat! During all of this the kids were great entertaining themselves inside so we could concentrate on what we were doing.
By the time we had finished David was on watch and we tried to get back into routine again.
By this time we were only about half way in a straight line to our destination so knew we were looking at a longer trip as the SE trade winds we were expecting were just not out there as the isobar weather map was showing a stationary warm front over Fiji which was stopping them. From now on the bird life dropped off for a couple of days, but we did start seeing small flying fish, one of which flew up on deck during the night, so Dan kept it to show the kids. The kids also had a half way there present to open from their friends which was Bubbles. This was great fun and a good diversion.
On the Monday Oliver decided he was doing some baking, so very independently cooked us all cupcakes out of his cookbook. That evening Paige decided she was helping with the evening watch (1800-2100) which was nice for me to have someone to talk to as after tea everyone usually was in bed fairly smartly to get their rest before their next watch. She lasted until 2030, and then scuttled off to bed as well. I have written in the log for my 0300-0600 watch that I did it in bare feet! Definitely feeling excited about the warming temperature.
Tuesday we started seeing birds again, but not ones we recognised which was also really cool. That evening we had just sat down to tea, it had been dark about half an hour and all of a sudden there was a dramatic wind change, swung about 180 degrees and increased in strength, which caused a flurry of activity, to put in a couple of reefs as we had no way of knowing whether or not it would increase or not and getting back on to the right heading. Thankfully it didn’t build but a little scary as you just couldn’t see the water/waves to give any indication of what might have been happening.
Wednesday morning and the end was in sight. We had passed Ata Island during the night, and could still see it on the horizon behind us in the morning when the kids woke up so it was good for them to see some land. The bird life was increasing and on one of my watches there was lots of seaweed all signs to suggest we were getting there.
By the evening though it was obvious we would be getting to Tongatapu in the dark so made the decision to drop the sails, just a little Genoa for steerage and put out the new drogue, which stopped us, less than a knot, for a few hours. Unfortunately this did make us quite rocky and Dan started feeling sea sick again, so I did his watch for him, which was easier as we dosed in-between 20 minute position checks. Paige also helped again, as was really great about getting up when the timer went off.
At 0300 we dragged in the drogue and set sail again, a process which took 45 minutes and were on our way for the last part of our journey.
Skipper: Dan
Crew: Amy and David (a German backpacker who was working at Norsand with Dan for a while)
Helpers: Paige, Rylee and Oliver.
Departed 21st June, Arrived 1st July 2010. 240 hours, 10 days.
Total distance travelled – 1278nm, Average speed 5.35 Knots, Max Speed 15.31 recorded on the first day (Dan). 3 hour watches between 3 people, best watch 25 nm (Amy) and worst watch 7 nm (also Amy).
We left Whangarei Marina on the 16th of June and anchored in the harbour for a couple of nights while waiting for a few last minute bits and pieces – SSB and Weather Fax software. We then headed further down the harbour to Parua Bay for a couple of nights before heading to Marsden Cove Marina on Sunday the 20th. When there our friends that live on their boat there let us use their internet to look and the weather and the decision was made to go with the weather window we had, so we contacted customs and arranged to clear out the next morning.
A last minute trip to the local supermarket for bread, milk and a few fresh veges, a very quick visit from customs to complete the paper work and we were casting off at 1100. An hour later and we were just out of Whangarei Heads and getting sorted for exactly which course we were going to take with the good W breeze of 15 knots when the NZ Airforce Orion flew over and made VHF contact with us to confirm details. This was a bit nerve racking talking to “official” people on the airwaves but nice to know big brother was watching. We then settled in for what we were hoping to be a weeklong trip. We had a stew for late lunch which I had prepared that morning and then started to give in to the sea sickness. I think we all felt it, some more than others.
The kids had a wee parcel each to open which they had been given by friends from the marina. Paige got a toy dog (perfect) and the boys a hot wheels car each. This was great as they lay on the settee or out in the cockpit playing with them for the rest of the day. The parcel also had other things to open as the passage went on so it kept them occupied wondering what it might be and when we might be able to open them.
We had decided on 3 hour watches, which would give us a 6 hour break and one person only doing 2 watches in a 24 hour period. I landed the first Midnight to 0300 watch which was fine and I was thinking as I was trying to rest before coming on that it can’t be any worse that doing your first 8 hour night shift often on a few hours sleep if any. During the watch I saw some lights appear on the horizon behind us and was keeping a good look out for them. At the changeover we decided to gybe as we were heading further and further NW, and also put in a reef as the wind was gradually picking up. As Dan and I were doing this Paige woke up and was wondering around the saloon and the other vessel started to try and radio us on the VHF. We weren’t able to answer it so Paige asked them to wait until we had finished our sail change, she was so good and we were very proud of her. The other vessel just wanted to let us know they were going to be passing us, but I let them know we had just altered course so they stayed on the original heading and it wasn’t an issue.
Last sunset over New Zealand.
Dan saw a couple of other large vessels on his watch, and another yacht appeared on Davids morning watch which stayed sailing parallel with us for most of the day.
The first 24 hours was our best in regards to distance travelled 175 nm. The Orion flew over us again and when they contacted us they even commented that we had made good progress which was nice. It was a very quiet day, with everyone still getting used to the motion of being on the sea.
On the Wednesday we were all starting to get our sea legs and even attempted some fishing with our new hand line. We had a large tuna right up to the steps then just as we were trying to land it, it got off. About an hour later we had another strike, which made the hand line jump off the winch it was attached to and we lost the whole lot. Dan was understandably not very happy and was wishing the fish a slow horrible death.
In the afternoon Paige taught Rylee how to make sherbet.
Over night the wind started increasing and by early Thursday morning we were sailing with just the storm jib with winds steady in the 30 knots, but gusting up to 50 knots. Dan felt the seas weren’t too big, and it wouldn’t last long and by the afternoon we were starting to put sails back up and the sea sickness which had started again was easing.
After this time we averaged only around 10 knots of wind, and passage life felt like it was really beginning in earnest. Overnight into the Friday I saw a couple of planes about 20 minutes apart looking to be doing the overnight flight from Tonga to Auckland. During the day we did manage to catch a small tuna like fish on the kids fishing rods, which made a nice entree to our evening meal.
Saturday was perhaps our most nerve wracking as on Dans 0600 watch he took out a reef with the help of Paige and once again the Main halyard slipped off the sheave at the top of the mast (we had this in Croiselles Harbour April 2009) and we couldn’t get the main down if we needed to. I had just got off to sleep when Dan had to wake me again to help. I was obviously not on the ball as when we were getting sorted I accidentally let the Genoa halyard off the Jammer so as well as everything else we had to re-hoist it. The wind had eased but it was still sloppy with the waves, so David was on the helm keeping us as steady as possible, while I hoisted Dan up to do the job. Needless to say it was very stressful. Being down on deck I watched as Dan became paler and paler, including his feet and hands. After about three quarters of an hour he finally was ready to return down to us, much battered and bruised, and needed to lie on the cabin top for a while before being able to move. He had three layers of clothing, all of which were soaked with sweat! During all of this the kids were great entertaining themselves inside so we could concentrate on what we were doing.
By the time we had finished David was on watch and we tried to get back into routine again.
By this time we were only about half way in a straight line to our destination so knew we were looking at a longer trip as the SE trade winds we were expecting were just not out there as the isobar weather map was showing a stationary warm front over Fiji which was stopping them. From now on the bird life dropped off for a couple of days, but we did start seeing small flying fish, one of which flew up on deck during the night, so Dan kept it to show the kids. The kids also had a half way there present to open from their friends which was Bubbles. This was great fun and a good diversion.
On the Monday Oliver decided he was doing some baking, so very independently cooked us all cupcakes out of his cookbook. That evening Paige decided she was helping with the evening watch (1800-2100) which was nice for me to have someone to talk to as after tea everyone usually was in bed fairly smartly to get their rest before their next watch. She lasted until 2030, and then scuttled off to bed as well. I have written in the log for my 0300-0600 watch that I did it in bare feet! Definitely feeling excited about the warming temperature.
Tuesday we started seeing birds again, but not ones we recognised which was also really cool. That evening we had just sat down to tea, it had been dark about half an hour and all of a sudden there was a dramatic wind change, swung about 180 degrees and increased in strength, which caused a flurry of activity, to put in a couple of reefs as we had no way of knowing whether or not it would increase or not and getting back on to the right heading. Thankfully it didn’t build but a little scary as you just couldn’t see the water/waves to give any indication of what might have been happening.
Wednesday morning and the end was in sight. We had passed Ata Island during the night, and could still see it on the horizon behind us in the morning when the kids woke up so it was good for them to see some land. The bird life was increasing and on one of my watches there was lots of seaweed all signs to suggest we were getting there.
By the evening though it was obvious we would be getting to Tongatapu in the dark so made the decision to drop the sails, just a little Genoa for steerage and put out the new drogue, which stopped us, less than a knot, for a few hours. Unfortunately this did make us quite rocky and Dan started feeling sea sick again, so I did his watch for him, which was easier as we dosed in-between 20 minute position checks. Paige also helped again, as was really great about getting up when the timer went off.
At 0300 we dragged in the drogue and set sail again, a process which took 45 minutes and were on our way for the last part of our journey.
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